Skincare - Pick Your Potion

Let me preface with a few things. I should probably put this on Substack, but I pay for this site, so we’re starting here. This isn’t one of those countless influencer posts that run rampant on TikTok and Instagram. I’m not hawking products I’m getting paid for, nor am I implying that what works for me will work for you. I’ve arrived at knowing what works for me through countless hours of researching products, ingredients, causes of rosacea, weather and its impacts on skin (Chicago: not so kind; Florida: oh so kind), gut health, oils vs. serums, and more. I suggest you do the same—said in a non-menacing tone.

I’m as fair and pale as they come, and with that comes allergies and sensitivities to certain products, perfumes, and ingredients. As my good friend Paulina reminds me, “That’s some white people shit,” and it certainly, sadly is! What I’ve discovered is my skin appreciates the less-is-more approach, aka gentler ingredients. I rotate serums, oils, and moisturizers daily. I don’t stick to a strict morning/evening routine. Instead, I see what my skin seems to need and select the products in my cabinet accordingly.

Ok, let’s get into it—and by “it,” I mean the products.

Cleanser

I recently had a facial at Sana Skin Studio, a spa with multiple locations in South Florida. Their aesthetics and ethos caught my eye, and while browsing, I noticed they carry a few brands I'm familiar with, like Augustinus Bader. Admittedly pricey, but undeniably great.

After the facial, my facialist guided me around their product section (she didn't push; I asked her to show me a few things), and I'm glad she did. She introduced me to Pai Skincare, a London-based brand known for ethical practices and great ingredients. She recommended their Rosehip Cleansing Oil, a gentle cleanser that when applied to dry skin helps remove makeup, SPF, and daily pollutants. It also smells wonderful. I've found it to be a refreshing alternative to my usual favorite, Living Libations Sea Buckthorn Cleansing Oil, a product I often recommend to friends.

Essence & Toner

Am I here to convince you to buy the ubiquitous Snail Mucin essence? Nope. But, you can certainly give it a shot in order to help your other products absorb a tad better (just remember to apply it to wet skin as a first step after cleansing in the morning).

What I'm really into is an essence from Agent Nateur. It's a hydration booster, a redness reducer, and a dead skin cell dissolver all rolled into one. Think a gentle toner. I incorporate it into my routine three times a week after cleansing, particularly at night. The founder's story is intriguing, but I'll let you delve into that yourself. Interestingly, I enjoy being on their email list, a rarity for me. They don't bombard your inbox (no one wants an email from one brand everyday, c’mon), and their emails are both informative and engaging.

Now, for a proper toner, I've been using the Danucera D22 Tonic from the founder of Rescue Spa. If you ever find yourself in the West Village, make sure to swing by the Rescue Spa for a facial, and treat yourself to lunch at Palma afterward—thank me later! This toner is packed with vitamins and works to unclog pores and boost elasticity. I use it maybe once or twice a week, depending on how my skin texture is looking, with a reusable cotton pad in upward motions. Let me add a little note here, skin texture is normal. The Kardashians and influencers have warped peoples’ minds into thinking skin needs to be as poreless and even as possible - “glass skin”. That isn’t realistic, don’t buy into their photoshop, Facetune lies. Anyway, this toner is great - moving on!

Serums, Oils, Oh My!

Whilst at the aforementioned Sana Skin Studio for a facial, my esthetician also introduced me to Linné's Renew Face Serum. It works to help with texture, hydration, and to plump the skin. I’ve also been using and loving both Pai’s Rosehip Oil and Trader Joe's Jojoba Oil (did you know that jojoba oil closely resembles the sebum on our skin and thus, our skin soaks it right up)? I also reach for Biologique Recherche's Toleskin Serum when I have a big night or event coming up, it helps even things out and lock in that glow.

Moisturizers

As mentioned, she is a fragile delicate flower (she, is me), so we have to tailor moisturizers accordingly. Enter La Roche-Posay’s Toleriane Sensitive Cream, wear it day or night. A close second is Sahajan’s Ayurvedic Nourish Crème Rich cream, perfect in the evening since it's a bit thicker. I can feel my friend Amanda rolling her eyes at some of my granola skincare choices, but that’s showbiz, baby! Want something a bit more natural and easy to throw in your bag and reapply during the day? Try Apt Herbals the salve - this is a small production out of Oregon, with ingredients sourced from their garden or local farms. I adore their products, the salve helped when I was struggling with a bit of eczema while living in Austin, TX. Add their rose oil and calendula lip balm to your cart while you're at it - you won’t regret it. I’m also a big fan of French Pharmacy beauty products and I enjoy Ialuset’s À L’acide Hyaluronique cream, which is great for other parts of your body that also need some TLC. Dry elbows anyone? You can buy these products online, but if you ever find yourself in the greater Paris area, pop into any pharmacy to experience cult-favorite French shampoos, lip balms, makeup, and skincare at your fingertips.

Fun Stuff

We’re almost done, can you believe it? I bet you thought this would be short, ha, please. Alright, I mentioned Biologique Recherche earlier. To preface, their products have a ton of active ingredients, so if you're new to the brand, start slow and see how your skin responds. I adore their Masque Visolastine; it’s going to get you hydrated and leave you glowing. I use it once a week, and it never lets me down. Also, Masque Vivant is great for tightening, clearing out pores, and removing excess oil. In that same breath, let's talk sheet masks. Don’t fall for the hype that you need to buy expensive sheet masks. Hop over to your local H Mart or find a distributor of Korean skincare online and order a few based on what you think you need: clarifying, brightening, hydrating, calming, whatever, and keep it moving. They're inexpensive and great. Retinol? I haven't made the jump yet; however, my friend Ashley recently turned me onto A313. All the French girlies love it, and it’s a nice alternative to retinol. Will report back!

Skin Mist. I love a good spritz that smells nice and makes my skin feel lighter. I'm a repeat buyer of Avène’s Thermal Spring Water Mist; it's a quick way to feel hydrated or to use after your toner before adding your serums and oils. I also recently had the pleasure of being introduced to Dehiya’s Safi Face Mist, which works to do the same and smells like a nice herbal situation. Finally, I have a red light therapy mask from Omniluxe. I’m going to be honest with you, the rumors are true - these red light masks make such a difference. I start my day with a little ten minute meditation while wearing it and I’ve definitely noticed an improvement in my skin. If you're curious about them, I recommend researching the benefits and price points and making your decision from there.

Ok, that was fun - let’s do it again sometime